Maison Avoise

92130 ISSY-LES-MOULINEAUX

13.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

4 PHOTOS

Cooking French

Services Terrace

Gault&Millau's review

13.5/20

Chef's Restaurant In a quiet, residential setting in the hills above Issy, Alexis Voisenet has beautifully fitted out his first restaurant in the former casemates of the fort, keeping the walls untouched in a refined setting. The counter area faces the open kitchens, where you can enjoy a few oysters and lichettes of charcuterie, piquillos, saint-nectaire... The other side of the restaurant is dedicated to gastronomy, with a range of formulas to choose from, complementing a short, well-developed menu. From Guy Savoy, the chef learned rigor in execution, but also the gourmet taste of a peasant in a very urban world. His "madrague", a kind of marine head cheese with mussels and oysters, a ravigote and a saffron jus, makes a simple, fresh and pleasant starter, more so than the douillon with oyster mushrooms, more ambitious than accomplished, with a dough that's both brittle and soft, and a mushroom jus emulsified with coffee around the trumpets of death. We're back in the saddle with superb poultry from Arnaud Tauzin, impeccably prepared and presented in the old-fashioned way, with its slice of bread, fillet and leg, and a fine albuféra, before a good tartlet-style dessert in two parts, apple hazelnut kiwi on one side, apple and buckwheat ice-cream tatin on the other. The young, highly committed staff recite the de rigueur, conservative and regressive eco-discourse without stumbling (no waste, handmade ceramics, local products, Issy beer and a potato recipe from Jacqueline, the chef's grandmother...) and the cellar is well varied, still lacking a little choice by the glass, but quite finely chiselled, with a wide choice of cocktails, beers, non-alcoholic beverages, coffees (from Anne Caron) and even cigars.

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