In this cosy, warm setting, with its claustras of rows of bottles, the chef offers a classic à la carte menu, and a carefully presented €49 menu. Tepid crab with winter vegetables, bisque, pike-perch pavé with spinach mousseline, and pistachio soufflé with custard. This bourgeois cuisine, including such staples as pâté en croûte, vol-au-vent and tourte, is accompanied by an extensive wine list of 110 wines by the glass, to suit all tastes and budgets, an approach that has made the restaurant's reputation, even if the dishes are, on the contrary, understated and understated.