While the place isn't exactly ideal for a solo or romantic meal (tables are crowded, space is limited and the noise level quickly reaches that of an airliner taking off), it would be wrong to turn away from this Radis Beurre, which promotes traditional French cuisine with sincerity and pride. Once you've swallowed the gherkins offered to tide you over, you're free to pick and choose from the day's menu: pan-fried pig's trotters with duck foie gras, roast free-range guinea fowl, coconut pulp and oyster mushrooms, before an inevitably regressive dessert: rum baba, "Grandma Rosa's" rice pudding (for the indispensable reference to family tradition...) or vanilla panna cotta, strawberry and Breton cookie. A fine wine list, and efficient, smiling service despite the crowds.