After training in pastry arts at Lameloise and gaining experience in various places throughout France, Clément Laplaud became Grégory Reich’s sous chef in 2015. He took over the restaurant last year and is carrying on the tradition, maintaining a Franco-regional spirit and offering delightful market-inspired dishes. The execution is top-notch, and diners can indulge in the chanterelle tartlet with parsley butter, Tête de Moine cheese, and baby greens; the crispy line-caught hake white wine sauce, and sauerkraut; the pork pluma au gratin with chorizo, baby vegetables, and gnocchi; or the 60% dark chocolate fondant.