It's no longer a hope, but a guarantee. Sitting down at Maria et Gilles's means rediscovering a sense of well-being, with a warm welcome and the fine dishes of a chef who has been so consistent for almost twenty years. Wise pricing is also a commendable fact of life just a stone's throw from the port, with interesting, well-executed two-toque creations: scallop carpaccio, lobster medallions with seaweed mayonnaise, hazelnuts and lamb chops, stuffed cabbage with spiced couscous semolina, candied mango, Japanese pearls with coconut milk and peanut praline. The cellar is extensive, showing a fine search for local and surrounding vineyards.