Guillaume Pape's table is undoubtedly one of the best in town for capturing the full power of the Breton countryside, between land, sea and sky. The dishes are chiseled and intuitive, revealing both the chef's technique and the intensity of the terroir. The trend is naturally marine, with a convincing procession of regional traditions: sea bream from Finistère with a raw seaweed cream, Taulé radish carpaccio and radish and yuzu vinaigrette, just-snacked langoustine tails, the claw browned in butter, white asparagus from La Torche and crème de langoustines au cacao, a canon of milk-fed lamb roasted with piquillos, sweet-spiced baby turnips, herb coulis and jus perlé, a local dessert of caramelized apples, gavotte, caramel mousse, compote and apple/tarragon sorbet. Well-matched cellar.