French | Gastronomic | Healthy cooking | Local | Modern
Services
Access for people with disabilities
Style
Romantic
Budget(€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
49 to 112
Gault&Millau's review2026
What a pleasure to welcome back Sophie Reigner and Julien Noray after a few months' closure! In an unassuming street not far from the town center, the discreet facade hides a room of great elegance, soothing with its furniture and the quality of its lighting. In total harmony with the brand, the typical, well-thought-out, light cuisine is a hymn to the sea, from the highly relevant amuse-bouche to the ultimate chocolate bite. For starters, sardines and horse mackerel express themselves in just the right way, laid on a rhubarb jelly water. A duo boosted by another duo, rhubarb and wasabi, in the form of a perfectly measured condiment. The dish's crispiness is enhanced by grilled sardine bones. The immersion continues with the "signature" dish (according to the waiter), sea eel smoked with beech wood and lacquered with pomegranate molasses, accompanied by butter-roasted cauliflower topped with a civet sauce. The counterpoint is a tiny glass of Kari Gosse ribot milk. A composition of character executed with finesse. The next course is cod spiked with peppery seaweed, enhanced by a variation on tomato, which is a delight to the taste buds. The pre-dessert (melon-orgeat-sea radish-amaretto) and dessert are brilliant. The baba infused with meadowsweet is beautifully textured. It combines with a pan-fried Morello cherry and a lightly lemony gwell sorbet. A hint of iodine, a cherry coulis and a light turn of the voatsiperifery pepper mill complete this vibrant dessert. Smiling, precise service. A short, limited wine list (the Loire tour of white wines is thus completed in five stages), but the selection is rigorous: Michel Girard's Sancerre, Domaine Augustin's Collioure, Domaine Dauvergne Ranvier's Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine de la Monette's Mercurey...