Don't be fooled by its innocuous brasserie-in-town look. For even if the young team seems left to its own devices, head chef Laurent Blanchard oversees everything from his kitchen, while his wife manages the second address nearby, In Fine. And the difference with the competition is self-evident: a great deal of rigor and professionalism, and obvious know-how in the kitchen. An irreproachable and excellent tête de veau gribiche, finely sliced, a good parmentier de canard fermier (farmhouse duck parmentier) for plates to the chord. You can finish with Jollit cheeses or a Valrhona chocolate tart, and wine by the glass starts at €4.