On Route Napoléon, a family-run hotel in standard mode, yet with a strong desire to promote its cuisine. And it's all to the credit of young chef Jérémy Da Fonseca, who keeps a restaurant and a bistro running, varying pleasures and progressing. Try the tourte, the gâteau de poissons du lac and fregola sarda, the lamb chops and gratin dauphinois, the gâteau de pommes confites au poivre de Kampot. The first toque arrives, and we cheer. Good menus at €26 and €35.50, classic cellar.