In the chic Rue d'Anjou, Stéphane Manigold's Contraste is doing well. The team in place is on the right track, with a solid, modern approach in a busy yet gourmet atmosphere that's also very plant-based: grilled mackerel with eggplant miso, lovage and ginger, fennel with rosemary, tomato caramel and nettle purée, strawberries in their juice with yoghurt ice cream and chimichurri. The trendy codes are well observed, and this €55 lunch menu is a logical success. For dinner, a 4-course menu for €89.