Contraste

75008 PARIS

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

11 PHOTOS

Chef Louis De Vicari

Cooking French | Healthy cooking | Signature cuisine

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

55€ à 150€

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20

Chef's Restaurant Erwan Ledru and Kévin de Porre have left Contraste after a few years in the spotlight, and as always with Stéphane Manigold's restaurants, the newcomer is just as successful as his predecessors. Louis de Vicari has quickly found his feet in this pretty two-level room, and the new lease of life he has managed to bring in just a few months is refreshing. Having fun both reassuring and destabilizing customers, the plates of this former Emmanuel Renaut chef are already flirting with the third toque: a beautiful opening with zucchini flowers stuffed with pine nuts, piquillo and black olives, bouillabaisse sauce and goat's cream, before savory sardines marinated in basil, potatoes, candied spring onions, marinière-style emulsion flavored with licorice, tomato water reduction and shellfish, which precede a magnificent red mullet snacked and flamed, lacquered with miso and red mullet liver, raw and cooked fennel. An enchanting dessert of strawberry ciflorette, fresh juice and chili, watercress condiment, puffed rice crisp, yogurt ice cream, chimichurri sauce (strawberries, chili and fresh mint) and a doughnut with strawberry and chili filling. Service in perfect tempo, very complete cellar but lacking in affordable wines by the glass.