Only in western Paris can you still find these timeless tables. In this Italian-style lounge, at once kitsch and touching, lit by a magnificent Murano chandelier, you're greeted with a smile tinged with irony, each customer the subject of a kind word from the staff, whether you're a regular or not. Some locals have made it their canteen (it's quite a budget, after all...), because the service is impeccable and the arancini with pesto and buffala or the linguine with bottarga are perfect. The lunch menu allows you to get your foot in the door without breaking the bank, and the Italian cellar is beautiful and not (too) expensive.