Two toques for pâté and mashed sausage? And why not? It's not a posture or a publicity stunt, of course, because since it made its debut in 2018, just a few months after opening, former MOF charcuterie chef Arnaud Nicolas' restaurant has never disappointed. The former pupil of Franck Cerutti (at the Louis XV in Monaco) doesn't claim to be reinventing the wheel, nor does he distinguish himself by extravagant dressings, concentrating on the essentials: first-rate products, mastered recipes, straightforward, clean tastes. The tasting plate of cooked charcuterie is a must, with a piece of country terrine to die for and a pâté-croûte worth every superlative, with its fine pieces of foie gras and poultry, the sausage (homemade, of course) with its silky mashed potatoes makes all those pseudo-canteens that have jumped on the culinary revival bandwagon look ridiculous, and the astonishing exotic fruit tartlet with vanilla cream and mango-lemon siphon succeeds where this table wasn't necessarily expected to, in a light, creamy, tangy register. A lovely cellar, full of off-the-beaten-track references, and relaxed service.