Flanders has been growing white gold for five centuries
Seasonal, delicate and grown with care, asparagus is the most eagerly awaited seasonal product in every corner of the country. Find out where to grow them, where to buy them and, above all, where to enjoy them.
A fleeting pleasure
While green asparagus is well known, white asparagus is rarer. This is due to their short availability, but also to the effort required to grow them. Asparagus retains its whiteness only as long as it remains underground: as soon as its head sees the sun, it turns purple in less than five hours. That's why they're staked so they never see the light until they're harvested, using a special knife - a gouge - to extract the vegetable from the earth around the stalks.
The asparagus season extends from spring to June 24 (St. John's Day or summer solstice). The plant then needs to rest to ensure a good harvest the following year. In Flanders, asparagus is grown mainly around Mechelen and in Limburg, where the sandy, loamy soil provides ideal conditions.
The short harvest period, intensive labor and the fact that a plant only produces asparagus from its third year onwards explain the higher price of this noble vegetable. Its value has been recognized for centuries, as evidenced by numerous paintings from the 16ᵉ century in which asparagus features prominently. It was at this time that they began to be cultivated in Flanders for the wealthy classes. However, they were not marketed on a large scale until the 19ᵉ century.
A vegetable with medicinal virtues
However, asparagus appeared much earlier in our regions. Before the year 1000, they were already being eaten in what is now Italy. Italian merchants are said to have introduced their seeds to Flanders in the Middle Ages.
An unusual detail: in the past, they were nicknamed 'pharmacy asparagus', as they were used to treat heart problems, bee stings, dizziness and toothache. The sulphurous smell given off by their urine after consumption was even considered a sign of purification. Today, we know that the acid in asparagus is transformed into a sulfurous substance during digestion.
How to cook asparagus
Flemish-style asparagus is unquestionably one of the tastiest regional dishes. Not only for its ingenious simplicity, but also because it features a typically Flemish product, available only two or three months of the year. And, a rarity in our rich, gourmet cuisine, the star of the plate is not meat or fish, but a vegetable. A few hard-boiled eggs and a generous portion of clarified butter with parsley are all that's needed to make a preparation that's both tasty and refined.
Where to enjoy this classic?
in Antwerp :
Bistrot du Nord: In this French-inspired bistro, Michaël Rewers offers classic cuisine with elegance and technical finesse. 15.5/20, www.bistrotdunord.be.
Ciro's: Nostalgic bourgeois cuisine that's been making the hearts of Antwerp's locals beat for 60 years. 13.5/20, www.ciros.be
in Brussels :
Terborght: Lesley De Vlieger sublimates her asparagus with a beautiful portion of North Sea shrimp. 15.5/20, www.terborght.be
Le Canterbury: Brasserie classics in a friendly atmosphere. 12.5/20, www.lecanterbury.be
in Limburg :
The Thrill: For his white asparagus, chef Rik Vandersanden puts aside his grilled cuts of meat for a moment. 14/20, www.thethrill.be
De Goei Goesting: There's something for everyone, from Italian and Asian-inspired dishes to Flemish classics. 12/20, www.degoeigoesting.be
In East Flanders :
Kelderman: This great fish restaurant proves, thanks to chef Peter Aesaert, that asparagus also has its place. 15.5/20, www.visrestaurant-kelderman.be
Bacchus: Surrounded by greenery, facing peaceful deer, you'll enjoy the finest local produce here. 13.5/20, www.restaurantbacchus.be
In West Flanders :
Refter: Created by top chef Geert Van Hecke, this contemporary bistro has been delighting us with generous dishes for 15 years. 14/20, www.bistrorefter.com
De Savoye: Ignace De Savoye draws inspiration from the market to prepare his dishes with simplicity and taste. 14/20, www.desavoye.be
Want to delve into the world of asparagus in ways other than through your plate? Here are a few original activities not to be missed.
Get on your bike for a 47 km itinerary through charming villages along the Scheldt. Start at the Hof van Coolhem in Kalfort, where the region's first asparagus was sown in 1885 - and exported as far as Paris! The route continues via Bornem, Puurs and Sint-Amands.
Kinrooi is considered the asparagus commune par excellence. Numerous asparagus farms open their doors to visitors, giving them the chance to get a close-up view of the asparagus-growing trade.
Hoeve 't Bommesaarke, Geistingen. Discover all the stages of cultivation and end the visit with an asparagus soup prepared with the peelings. www.hoevebommesaarke.be
Johan Driessens, Molenbeersel. Enjoy a coffee with a Limburg tart, watch a short film, then visit the field where all your questions will be answered. www.visitkinrooi.com
Farms and stores to buy fresh asparagus
Goossens-Malderen, Buggenhout. Family-run farm since 1989, close to Lippelo woods. Producers of asparagus, as well as Brussels sprouts. www.goossensmalderen.be
De Polkenhoeve, Stekene. Jurgen Van Hooste, third generation asparagus grower, tells the story of this noble vegetable. You can buy asparagus and learn how to cook it in one of his culinary workshops. www.depolkenhoeve.be
Jos and Frieda Belmans-Lambrechts, Berlaar. After 25 years growing tomatoes, they turned to asparagus in 2010. www.aspergesvanbijons.be
Amelinckx, Hingene: For three generations, asparagus has been harvested here with passion. We'd be delighted to tell you their fascinating story. topasperges.com
