48 hours in Blois

From the left bank of the Loire, this is one of the best views you can have of the heights of Blois, its castle, the Jacques-Gabriel bridge, Saint-Louis cathedral and the spires of Saint-Nicolas church. in Blois-Vienne, also known to Blois locals as the "quartier des mariniers", Christophe Hay set up shop in 2022, taking over a former palace commissioned by Gaston d'Orléans. The address has revitalized this quay on the Loire, quieter than the historic city center, by becoming the chef's playground: a 5-star hotel with a Sisley spa, two restaurants and a "kiosque à pâtisseries". five minutes away by car, or ten minutes on foot, Christophe Hay keeps an eye on his vegetable garden. "I consider myself a 'terroirist'. I want to promote the terroir, but also offer tastes and sensations to my guests", he sums up as he presents his hectare and a half of permaculture plantations. Open to Fleur de Loire customers only, the kitchen garden allows visitors to cross-breed old varieties such as the violet celery from Tours or the sucrine from Berry, which have been re-planted thanks to the collaboration of the Conservatoire des semences anciennes régionales.

You'll find these products in all their splendor in the restaurant, on the plates of ceramist Valérie Radix, who moved into a workshop adjoining the hotel in September 2023. In her boutique-atelier, she showcases her creations as well as the work of seven other ceramists. This former school teacher turned to pottery nine years ago. She works in porcelain, using throwing and casting techniques. "It was love at first sight... its whiteness gives me the impression that anything is possible", she says. Her creations are inspired by the Loire, "its reflections that change with the seasons, its marine and plant worlds", comments the designer of Christophe Hay's tableware.

Once over the Pont Jacques-Gabriel, on the right bank, the château dominates the historic center, in pocket-size format. Calves strengthen as you climb the city's many staircases, notably the Denis Papin staircase, but also others that are more discreet and less colorful. "In Blois, we call them "degrees". So expect to climb some steps when this term is used," explains Barbara Lafon, a guide and heritage mediator who has been pacing the city's alleyways for several years.

On one side, the Renaissance château; on the other, the cathedral, listed as a historic monument since 1906. And the Puits-Châtel district, below, is a bit of a hidden gem for Blésois: "Even in summer, there aren't many tourists here," smiles Barbara Lafon. Nestled in its tangle of alleyways are 15th and 16th century townhouses, with bas-relief-adorned front doors: hôtel Sardini, Hôtel de Vareille (also known as Hôtel de Lavallière), Hôtel de Rochefort (also known as Jacques de Moulins) and Hôtel de Villebresme (or Maison Denis Papin).

The historic Blois gives way to a more contemporary facet as we head for the Fondation du doute. This museum houses a surprising collection devoted to Fluxus, an artistic movement created in New York in the 1960s and led in France by the artist Ben. "It's a bit of a surprise destination, a collection whose wealth is unhoped-for and virtually unrivalled," explains Gilles Rion, the new director, appointed in 2024. The foundation is also a hybrid space that doubles as an art and music school. In the Cour du Doute, where you can read Ben's thirteen paintings on his

Ben's thirteen paintings on his Wall of Words. In the inner courtyard, a new space now hosts temporary exhibitions, an annual program that the new director undertook to "intensify" as soon as he arrived (as did the opening hours, for a place that is now accessible all year round).

If the town of Blois slumbers in winter, it wakes up in spring. Just like its 17th-century, terraced bishop's palace gardens, which slope down to the Loire. They offer a breathtaking view of the royal river and the town's rooftops.