From Saint-Flour to Tounemire in 24 hours

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes/2022

Those who live here, but also those who travel through it, often agree: the Cantal is one of the most beautiful départements in France, thanks to its landscapes and its nature, without high peaks or dream beaches. Gault&Millau reveals some of it to you.

From Saint-Flour to Tounemire in 24 hours

The "upper town" of Saint-Flour stands proudly on its spur, with its ancient streets and traditions, dominated by the austere Saint-Pierre cathedral, a 15th-century Gothic edifice reworked after suffering during the Revolution and listed since 1906. Also worth a visit is the collegiate church of Notre-Dame, once used as a grain store before being restored at the beginning of this century. A pleasant stroll through the old streets, with their ancient houses, some built of lava stone. Near the cathedral, you'll discover the Alfred Douët Fine Arts Museum and the Haute-Auvergne Museum. Shops are spread around the cathedral and tourist office, rue des Lacs and rue Marchande. You'll appreciate the views across the region from this elevated position at many points along the walk. Leaving Saint-Flour on the D44, the deep green landscape is almost symbolic of the whole département. From this plateau, known as the Planèze, you discover a vast horizon of lush meadows and fields, all the way to the distant Auvergne mountains. The position is strategic, as evidenced by the abundance of birds of prey perched on the roadside posts, watching for field mice and voles. Turn right on the D116 towards Tanavelle, which you cross as you continue towards Valuéjols. In the midst of all this beauty, we stop to refuel at the Ferme des Cochons Gourmands, just before the village of Latga. Once again, we take in the 360° panoramic view. We cross Paulhac and then Valuéjols, at an altitude of over 1000 m. Don't miss the lovely 12th-15th-century Saint-Saturnin church, with its serene atmosphere. Push open the door to enjoy the peace and quiet, admire the old stained-glass windows, the discreetly beautiful ribbed choir and the Romanesque base that developed into Gothic three centuries later. You can buy cheese at the Fromagerie des Monts du Cantal, on the road to Le Lioran. Enjoy a family drink at Les Blés d'Or before taking the D34 towards Paulhac. En route, we pass the Jarry dairy farm. Cross Paulhac and continue on the same D34 towards Pierrefort. A lively village, popular with tourists visiting this region on the borders of the département, close to the Aveyron and Truyère valleys, and on the threshold of the Volcans d'Auvergne regional nature park. There's plenty to do in the area, including an excellent pork butcher and a beautiful church. Leave Pierrefort on the D265 and then the D57 towards Brezons. The road becomes narrower and more mountainous. After Brezons, we make a detour to Malbo and its auberge La Femme du Barbu. You then follow the D401 and, at Lacapelle-Barrès, turn right onto the D54 towards Pailherols, a magnificent road but rather complicated in winter if you're not sufficiently equipped. Stop off at Maisons de Montagne Chez Marie, in the middle of these beautiful landscapes, near the lake. We continue over the Col de Saint-Clément, at an altitude of 1000 m, to Vic-sur-Cère, in the heart of the Carladès region. A long village along the Cère, crossed by the busy N122, the route between Aurillac and Massiac leading to the A75 motorway. Stroll along the river and through the grounds of the Maison des Eaux Minérales. Take the N122 north to Saint-Jacques-des-Blats. Don't forget to make a short round trip to Puy-Mary, at an altitude of almost 1800 m, for an extraordinary panorama overlooking the whole of Auvergne, the Chaîne des Puys and the neighbouring départements. You then descend to Mandailles before continuing on the D246 and then the D35. At Col de Bruel, turn right onto the D35, then the D60 to reach our final destination, Tournemire and its splendid old château d'Anjony. High above the Doire valley, Tournemire deserves to be listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Set in a natural circle of deep green, it features simple houses with lauze or slate roofs, fish-scale roofs, narrow streets with difficult access, and the proud and beautiful 13th-century Château d'Anjony. Built by one of Joan of Arc's companions, this sturdy, squat medieval edifice with its four towers is in an excellent state of preservation. It houses fine tapestries, a chapel with remarkable frescoes and a vaulted weapons room.